Leonidio is situated on the eastern coast of the Peloponnese in Greece. It is a beautiful canyon that opens out into a seafront, with a lush agricultural valley also known as "the garden of Dionysus." This beautiful rock climbing paradise is packed with over 1000 sports climbing routes. New routes are continuously being bolted and developed. There was word that route setters wanted to develop better multi-pitch. The vertical red and gray limestone walls are a paradise for tufa and Cinta climbing. There are caves, overhang sections, slab routes and seafront boulder sectors. Overall the climbing is outstanding.
Our favorite sectors:
Mars Sector - Tufa paradise. 20-30 minute hike.
Sabaton - Easy access, shade and lots of different grade routes.
Twin Caves - Spectacular and hard routes.
Bella Vista - Lots of medium grade routes. 20-30 minute hike.
Cool at the Pool - A small boulder sector next to the sea.
High season:
Due to the temperature in Greece October to April is the best season. Even though climbing in the summer is possible in the shady sectors.
Getting there:
Fly to Athens Airport and rent a car. Drive 3-4 hours to Leonidio.
Fly to Kalamata Airport (KLX) and rent a car. Drive approximately 2 hours to Leonidio.
For van life travelers the Attiki Odos is new and a very good road but has high toll rates. If you want to travel cheap, the old national road is toll-free (a little more dangerous at some points) but most of the Peloponnese and west of Greece is toll-free. There are plenty of places to park for the night.
Useful links:
Where to eat:
A good general tip is always check the price of the Greek salad.
Εστιατόριο "Μητρόπολη". Good greek food and an amazing view of Kokkinos Vrahos. Both Meat and vegan dishes.
Ταβέρνα "Μιχάλης - Μαργαρίτα" Fish, meat and vegan food.
Where to sleep:
Airbnb has some good options.
We stayed at a friendly family-run one:
Don't forget to.
Check out our "Crags of the World collection" and our Leonidio clothes. Designed for you to remember your outdoor adventures and favorite climbing crags.